The Oba’s royal palace:
With its unique traditional architecture and works of the arts.First build about 1255 AD by Oba Ewedo
Anyone who knows the Kingdom properly knows that the palace is regarded as one of the greatest museums in the world because it still holds a large collection of royal court arts, scriptural pieces of past Obas in bronze and ivory and ancestral shrines.
{4th} Oba Ewedo {About 1255AD-1280AD} discontented about been in the midst of the powerful and sometime rudely Edionisen {the five elders} of the kingdom, he called them "Emwan nei zama omwan"{people who have no respect for their monarch} corrupted to Uzama. This was not surprising because they brought Oromiyan from Uhe [IIe Ife]. These Edion more or less treated the monarchy as primus inter pares .To avoid more power struggle, Ewedo therefore embarked upon a risky job of supressing the Uzamas and moving the royal palace, the kingdom seat of government from Usama {a village outside Benin city} to it present place in Benin City the heart of the kingdom. Miraculously,he did not only succeed in doing so but eventually surpressed Ogiamien who was virtually in control of the City State.
The final settlement came at the battle of "Ekiokpagha" which the Oba fought with Ogiamien who was defeated.
After the victory. Oba Ewedo received the royal stool from Ogiamen and build the present royal palace.
This ancient royal palace is centrally located near the king's square in Benin City. Rebuilt By Oba Eweka II {1914AD-1932AD} after the 1897 infamous British punitive expedition destroyed the former palace.
It attracts a lot of visitors from far and near all year round.
In 1999, UNESCO listed the Oba's palace, and Igun Street the citadel of brass casting as cultural heritage site.
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Igun brass/bronze casters:
Igun-Eronmwon quarters popularly known, as Igun Street Benin City {listed as Cultural Heritage Site by UNESCO}is the home of the brass/bronze casting industries in Benin. It constitutes one of the 31 guilds of the Oba of Benin,in the ancient Benin kingdom.The ancient guild is so secretive and exclusive that outsiders have found virtually impossible to penetrate in the hundreds of years it
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has existed. All members of the guild are related by a common ancestry and descended of Ine Nigun, the custodian of the street and the bronze casters. The exact origin of bronze casting in Benin kingdom is hard to establish. What is very certain is that the art has been in practice from primordial reign of the Ogisos, the first royal dynasty without any break though with discernible chronological stages of development. This ancient craft passed from father to son, from generation to generation continually to this day.
In traditional Benin; before the invasions, of Benin Empire, in 1897 by British forces. The Oba controlled the production and the distribution of brass/bronze arts work no single individual have any right to own any of the production process in those days except with the permission of the Oba of Benin.
The story is very different today visitors are free to admire, witness bronze casting from the various stages purchase any piece of their choice without let or hindrance. This is probably one of the most patronized tourist attraction in Benin kingdom/Edo state.
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Emotan status:
The statue of the stately woman, clad in the traditional wrapper and a headgear associated with the Benin royalty stands opposite the Oba market in Benin City. The statue was erected in honor of Emotan a patriotic woman who traded in foodstuffs at the very spot where the statue stands in the 15th century. At that period,{11th} Oba Uwaifiokun {1430AD-1440AD} usurped the throne of the Benin
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kingdom in place of his senior brother,Prince Ogun who was the heir apparent. Ogun in those times of travail. paid secret and nocturnal visits to Benin from his exile. On many occasions,this market woman called Emotan warmed Ogun of impending dangers and advised him against interacting with some treacherous chiefs who may reveal his presence. On one occasion Emotan actually hide prince ogun from his adversary.
When Prince Ogun eventually regained the throne and was subsequently crowned as the real Oba of Benin, he took the name {12th} Oba Ewuare the great {1440AD-1473AD}. He did not forget the pivotal role played by this simple market woman, Emotan who saved him from glaring dangers during his exile years. When Emotan died, Oba Ewuare ordered that the sacred Uruhe tree be planted at the very spot where Emotan used to display her goods in Oba market and decreed that thereafter, every person in Benin who is performing any ceremony of whatever must pay homage to Emotan.Thus to this day every citizen,including the Oba himself pays homage to Emotan.
During the reign of {33rd} Oba Osemwende {1816AD-1848AD} the commemorative tree fell and he replanted another Uruhe tree on the same spot.
In 1951, the British colonial administration officials injected the tree with poisonous chemicals and uprooted it. This action almost led to a violent mass reaction. After which the {37th} Oba Akenzua II {1933AD-1978AD} vehemently protested the destruction of the Emotan shrine. This had been there since the 15th century. Consequently, the colonialists acceded to the request for a replacement. A life-size statue was cast by Mr. J.A.Danfor in London from a clay Marquette modeled by Enomayo, professional brass caster from the Igun-Eronmwon.
The new Emotan statue was unveiled amidst pomp and pageantry by the Oba Benin, Akenzua ll on March 20, 1954.
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This almost life-like statue was sculptured to the memory of Chief Asoro, a valiant brave man who died resisting the invading British forces during the expedition of 1897.During the siege on Benin, it was said that chief Asoro ably defended the spot where the statue now stands. He said "no other person dare pass this road unless the Oba" (So kpon Oba). It is this statement which has been corrupted |
to become SAKPONBA.This statue, which is a salute to patriotism and loyalty is located on the king's Square by the beginning of Sokponba Road,Benin City. The spot where chief Asoro have died after fighting bravely.
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Chief Ogiamen’s House:
The chief Ogiamien Ancient Palace building is located at No. 97 Sokponba Road in Benin City. It is a National Monument situated within the city walls and Moat (another historical monument).Built about 1130AD with a great significant as the only building that predate the emergence of OBASHIP in Benin political Organization and the only building that survived the 1897 British expedition and siege.
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It was declared a National Monument in May 26th 1959 and by Decree 77 of 1979 that establish the National Commission for Museum and monuments; and gazetted under the Federation of Nigeria official gazette No. 31 Vol. 46 of 1959, the protective cover of part II section 3 of the 1999 constitution of the Federal Republic of Nigeria under the concurrent legislative list.
The Chief Ogiamien historical building has survived the hash natural weather and human factors of deterioration till date. A rectangular shape of ancient design, fluted terecotta walls, presently covered by corrugated iron roofing sheets and nails, is a typical; unique traditional Benin architectural work.
The wall is a vertical undulating surface designed in relief. The front wall has two doors, the main entrance and the (Urho-Erinmwin) which is permanently blocked but open once during the coronation of the Oba of Benin Kingdom.
The building has about twenty rooms embedded in eight separate courtyards. A pitch roofing design constructed to provide an impulvia pattern, which is open to the sky to allow ventilation, sunlight, moonlight and rainfall into the courtyards.
Ogiamien personal, family and community shrine and altars are also located within the courtyard and other parts of the building. The floor of each courtyard is designed to provide a sunken level which aid water collection into an underground interconnected drainage system. The building has large open kitchen used for the preparation of chief Ogiamien food and an Egun, graveyard where all past Ogiamien were buried.
CULTURAL/RELIGIOUS SIGNIFICANT OF OGIAMIEN ANCIENT BUILDING.
The Ogiamien Ancient palace building have several cultural/Religious significant, foremost among which is the role it plays in the event of the coronation of the Oba of Benin (HOW?). The building is patterned for cultural residential house of a light placed and reputable Chief (Evian - the builder for His son Ogiamien).
An administrative building where He (Evian) rule and gave regulations guiding the entire Benin kingdom;
He receives visitors and entertain stranger, even accommodate them when necessary.
Slaves, captives of war are kept in their apartment within the building.
A traditional healing chamber is built in one of the courtyard as centre for administering healing for both spiritual and physical illness and attack.
It’s equally a spiritual consultation centre where oracles, rituals, sacrifices and divination and other form of worship take place.
It’s a traditional court room where dispute are settled for family and the entire Benin kingdom.
Is a centre for entertainment even today various forms of cultural dances, songs, folktales and stories take place in the building.
Chief Ogiamien celebrates Igue festival a day before the Benin general Igue festival then making his home a centre of ceremony.
A section of the palace serves as graveyard for the burial of all past Ogiamien except the first Ogiamien who was buried in his bed-room,
Within area of the grave-yard is a place used for pronouncing curses by young girls who were defiled by men (Ake shrine).
TABOOS IN THE OGIAMIEN ANCIENT BUILDING
The (Urho Erinmwin) second entrance door is sacred and exclusively used by the Oba of Benin as a passage way into the building as well as an exit. The door is barricaded and any body that violate this norm would face the wratch of death.
Chief Ogiamien wives do take oath of loyalty at the primordial tree Olode Ikhimwin tree, located in the building. And the most junior wife whose duty is to cook, must be naked by custom to avoid any evil intention.
He has a personal temple where his personnel items and regalia are kept. He equally isolates himself when preparing for war or after returning from war in this temple.
IMPORTANCE
Specifically, Chief Ogiamien ancient edifice, provides an avenue for cultural display, film production, family meeting place and a point where poems, idioms are recited. Folksongs such as lullaby and story-telling (folktales) take place. These act as synthesis that condition social life.
The monument has enormous cultural tourist potentials which can fetch revenue for both the local community, family and government in general, if properly harnessed, packaged and marketed.
Is a focal point in Benin History and architectural design, hence it serves as education and research centre for cultural bodies and student all over the world.
In general, the importance of our Heritage cannot be overemphasised. The greatness or pride of a Nation is tied to the wealth of their heritage. Thus conveys a testimony of the people daily life, to express their creative capacity and present the traces of their History.
As a receptive or package of memory, it embodies the symbolic of cultural identities and constitute fundamental references for structuring society. Heritage allows every human being the opportunity of self discovery.
It is useful in binding social groups together and bringing cultural communities closer to one another.
Heritage is an instrument of third way process between past, present and future.
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The Benin moat [Iya]:
The Benin moat, also known traditionally as Iya,is the largest man-made earthworks in the world. One of the wonders of the world. It predates the use of modern earth-moving equipment or technology in these parts. The moat encircles the old perimeter precincts of the City and was constructed as a defensive barrier in times of war. {5th} Oba Oguola {about 1280-1295} dug the first and second moats to
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fortify the City from invaders; Udo warriors "Iyokuo" under the command of Chief Akpanigiakon a powerful war lord, and the ruler of Udo. Oba Oguola further decreed that important towns and Villages should build similar moats as defence systems around their communities.This gave rise to twenty of such moats around Benin City and its environs. Oba Oguola succeeded in crushing Chief Akpanigiakon and his powerful armies at the battle of Urhezen about 1285 CE. An extension of the moat was constructed in the 15th century during the reign of {12th} Oba Ewuare the Great (1440-1473 CE).The Benin moat is over 3200 kilometers long.
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Holy Aruosa Cathedral: {Aruosa N'Akpakpava}
Is the oldest church in Nigeria .Build in the 15th century. Situated in Akpakpava street in the ancient city of Benin. Aruosa {Church of Benin} is the Benins version of Church of England or the Dutch reformed church. The Portuguese brought Christianity to the imperial Benin kingdom in the 15th century during the reign of Oba Esigie {about 1504-1550}and during this period,Missionaries were
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sent from Portugal to establish churches in the kingdom. The remnants of which are Aruosa N'Akpakpava, Aruosa N'Idunwuerie and Aruosa N' Ogbelaka all in Benin City. During the Idah war of 1515-1516 the Portuguese missionaries accompanied Oba Esigie to the battle fields. Oba Esigie could read and write portuguese fluently.
The Benin Monarch is the head of the church, the priests called Ohen-Osa are responsible to him .The pattern of worship is a mixture of indigenous beliefs and Roman catholic practices.
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Captain Phillip’s grave:
The tombstone of Captain James Phillip located at Uruokhokho in Ovia North East Local Government Area of Edo state, attracts historians , students, researchers and visitors from across the world all year round. It marks the spot where Captain Phillip and his party on a trade mission to Benin in January 1897 were killed and buried .The event is generally referred to as the Benin massacre which led to the
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invasion of Benin and the eventual deportation of Oba Ovonramwen to Calabar were he died on the month of January 1914 after sixteen years of British captivity.
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Ughoton:
Ughoton village, about 42 kilometers from Benin City, historically very important. According to historians a Benins, Prince Ekaladerhan {Izoduwa}later known to the Yorubas as Oduduwa was banished with his mother from the City of Benin to Ughoton.One of the darkest event in the history of the Benins,from there he took the painful and joyful journey from the land of Benin that eventually
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The shrine of the Olokun priest who was sent to portugal By Oba Esigie {About1504-1550AD} to understudy christianity and report back to the imperial Benin kingdom is also situated in Ughoton.
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Gelegele Fountains & Historical Port of Benin Site:
First contact with any European was made by Oba Ewuare the Great{About 1440AD-1473AD} when Ruy De Sequeira visited Benin City in 1472.The Portuguese came via the Atlantic Ocean and they finally landed in Gele Gele Sea Port in Benin Nation.The Gele Gele Sea Port was from then onward used predominantly for their legitimate trade with Benin Nation.It is also record that slaves
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(illegitimate trade) were also conveyed from the region via the Gele Gele Sea Port to Europe. Factually the Portuguese and British Government used the Gele Gele Sea Port extensively for more than half a century before the 1897 infamous British punitive expedition. This historic Sea Port site is today part of Benin kingdom historical sites.
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Statue of the Giant Arhuanran Of Udo:
This giant statue was sculptured to the memory of Arhuanran{Goliath type stature}a very powerful warrior and ruler of Udo. Oba Esigie {About 1504-1550AD} ascended the Benin throne at the peak of a war threat from Udo. Esigie in Benin City and Arhuanran in the town of Udo, about 20 miles from Benin City to the northwest. Udo then, was an important centre almost as large and powerful as
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Benin City. His brother Arhuanran who was tricked from ascending the Benin throne due to palace intrigues, decided to go into battle with the new Oba. The battle was fought and won by Oba Esigie. Arhuanran drowned himself in Lake Odighi N’Udo.
Chief Osemwughe the Iyase of Udo took arm again against the monarchial authority to avenge the defeat and the death of Arhuanran his master cut the victory celebration short.
Oba Esigie launch a war on Udo once again .Udo was destroyed chief Osemwughe and his rebel armies fled. West of Benin kingdom now part of Yoruba land.
Oba Esigie determine to put an end to Udo rebellion once and for all. Sent royal troops under the command of Odobo and Aile to pursue them in the process the Benins royal army builds military camps {Eko} along the way some of these camps {Eko} are now towns in Yoruba land.
Some of the Camps are camp Odobo {Eko-Odobo} name after general Odobo contracted into Akotogbo and camp Ikalo {Eko-Aile}name after general Aile was contracted to Ikale.
Osemwughe and his militants gave themselves up; when they could not face the war machines of the Benins royal troops much longer.
They were later given a royal pardons by Oba Esigie but decided not to return to Udo .chief Osemwughe and his party were called Emma n’ Udo{the Udo deserters} which was later contracted to Ondo and the leader of the militants chief Osemwughe was mispronounced Osemawe a title by which all Ondo monarchs are now known.
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EGEDEGE N'OKARO:
The first storey-building in Benin Kingdom. Built in 1906,by High Chief Osawe Iyamu, the then Inne of Benin.widely regarded was the second oldest story-building in Nigeria after the first one at Badagry, Lagos built in 1845 by white missionaries. Egedege N' Okaro is Situated at House No 30,Erie Street,off Sakponba Road,in ancient city of Benin. According to historical accounts, Egedege N’Okaro
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was the first residential one-storey structure to be built in the ancient city. It is made of red furnace-fired bricks with wooden decking. The design of building was given to Chief Iyamu by a Briton, Mr. Crawe Reade, a colonial officer who supervised its construction. A similar structure used as a ware-house was built by the Dutch in 1720 at Ughoton, a sea port. It was destroyed in 1767 by the French, according to historical accounts.
Although it was said that Chief Iyamu was not the first to start the construction of a storey-building, he completed his first. After his came the two, owned by the late Chief Eson Orokhiri and Prince Usuanlele Ovonramwem, on Ibiwe Street in Benin.
Interestingly, Egedege N’Okaro is a representation of the period in which it was built. The British had come with new things, ideas and new inventions were coming in.
More than hundred years old ,the structure still stands firmly and majestically.
What then is the secret behind the sturdiness of Egedege N’okaro over the years? Certainly, its builders were skilled masons who had their acts well articulated and executed with competence, thus ensuring the durability of the building.
The bricks of red earth used to build the structure were fired for three months and cooled for two weeks in the valley in the present Ikpoba Slope in Benin city . Its wooden decking and roofing were made of timber from choice trees – Mahogany and Iroko of about hundreds of years.
The signboard with the inscription: the Centenary Celebration of Egedege N’Okaro (the first storey-building in Benin Kingdom ) advertising its uniqueness alongside the address of the place cannot be missed by any passers-by. The wall fencing has Benin traditional designs. On closer examination, Egedege N’Okaro has an oriental appeal. By the porch on the ground floor are six huge roman columns painted red with some artistic designs. At the main entrance into the building with two wooden carved doors is a flower decoration. It has arch-shaped windows which delineates the oriental feel.
Its dimension is 48ft by 30ft and the height is same with any modern storey-building. On the ground floor is the main parlour with four adjoining-rooms – two on each side - which are also replicated upstairs. The wooden railing on the staircases and the top veranda, windows and carved door lentils are intact and in its original state, untouched by termites. In the sitting room upstairs, an electric fan and the chandelier lighting installed a long time ago are still functioning.
On the side of the building are two bungalows. The bungalow on right, built by the Ize-Iyamu progenitor, Chief Ohenwen, is two hundred years old. It was one of those spared when the British attacked the city.
On the other side is a small attachment housing a sitting room decorated like a mini-palace. In it, is a throne with the painting of the Esogbon of Benin kingdom over it and two wooden, red-rugged steps in front as foot mats. Hung on the left wall is the picture of the Oba of Benin and on the right is that of the Esogbon. Still on the right are the picture of Chief Iyamu and a painting of Egedege N’Okaro by Benin artist Omoruyi. Also scattered on the walls in the room are pictures of every member of the family. There are chairs belonging to varying generations; they are of modern and traditional blends – crafted wooden chairs as well as the present day sofa. On the one end of the room is a door that opens up into a square-shape courtyard at the back of the house hedged in by part of the old building, the harem belonging to wives and the kitchen. The courtyard was used for receiving visitors for private family meetings, the practice has since not stopped.
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